[sigplus] Critical error: Image gallery folder photos/2011-marlinespikes is expected to be a path relative to the image base folder specified in the back-end.

Consistently reproducing handmade items is hard. I've been using 3D modeling (CAD in OnShape) and 3D printing to make cutting / pricking templates, leading to easier, more repeatable leatherwork.
    quick rundown:
  1. Model the "thing". This is super simple -- a "box bag" would just be a rectangular prism, no fillets or anything.
  • Use the sheet metal tools to generate a sheet metal enclosure.
  • For seams, use flanges and scoot faces around
  • finally, sketch pricking locations & make holes in the sheet metal structure
  • export the unfolded model to DXG, then import THAT into a new part studio / new sketch
  • extrude to the thickness of your template. Print that
  • Making a leather box-style bag (easy mode)

    Pictured: hard mode. Do not try this at home

    Bear with me, I'm figuring this out as I go.

    The goal: make a rectangular prism tool bag, with zipper and handles. It should look pretty good and last forever. And not require a protractor or master's degree. Ideally, just a big rectangle of leather, one good needle + thread, and some scissors. And maybe a ruler (but not required).

    1. Cut or obtain a rectangle of material. It will be about L+H on one side, and 2H+2W on the other.
    2. Install the zipper, you now have a tube. Flip it inside out.
    3. Sew the ends (Width in the middle of the ends of the "tube". (maybe attach a tab)
    4. Cut out the 'corners', a two-layer square equal to Height/2
    5. (maybe attach a handle) sew the remaining corners
    6. Flip it rightside-out.
    7. try to prevent your wife from stealing it.

    Moai headphone holder

    concept: 3d print a dumpster, put LEDs in there to simulate fire. Bonus points: internet & use current events to drive intensity.


    • https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:950602
    • print all parts at 140% scale
    • compensate -0.02mm "bin"
    • use green PLA (Matter Fiber HTPLA is great) for bin, hinge, sleeves
    • use black TPU for wheels & lids
    • use piano wire for "bar" (hinge pin); bend one side

    Tea lights:


    • Particle Photon (fave IOT platform)
    • APA102 or WS2811, high density, 10 LEDs
    • 128x64 OLED display for stats

    The intensity feed:

    • IFTTT: if "user posts on twitter" then "publish an event to Particle". It's a public event, the data is entirely the contents of the tweet. The device subscribes to / receives that event and uses the number of characters to drive the intensity. Over time the fire dies down to a relatively low smolder.
    • In the video below, the unit starts at minimum intensity and reacts as if to a 45-character tweet. Over the next ~48 minutes the intensity will die back to the lowest value (unless there's more tweeting).

    (notes to future self)

    HTPLA from Proto-Pasta is reallllyyyy good in the kiln. Other PLA (lookin at you, Jessie) kinda sucks.

    200F / 2h: no warping, good result

    210F / 2h: warped, layer separation

    205F / 2h: warped (but not as bad as 210)

    200F / 2h: wood PLA + HTPLA, minor warping in wood (barely noticeable), no separation


    Remove the cover to expose the "guts". There are two buttons near the USB jack labeled "SETUP" and "RESET". Press and hold SETUP for about 3 seconds; the LED by the buttons will start blinking blue.